Travelling. It feels like a very pre-Covid preoccupation. I know since the end of the pandemic, numbers of tourists have increased dramatically in places like France and Italy (where I live), which seem to indicate that most people have gone back to travelling with a vengeance. Personally, I have changed my habits since Covid, partly due to the gob smacking increase in travelling costs and also to a hopefully more principled approach to travelling given the footprint every unnecessary travel has on the planet. Of course, one can choose to travel by train, which I do, whenever possible, but some destinations are out of reach and not being Greta Thumberg, a solar power yacht to travel to far-away destinations isn’t really an option. So I haven’t gone very far. I really miss it though.
Part of the joys of travelling for me, always entailed doing a tour of perfume shops, trying to find local “noses” and brands and wondering what scent would capture the essence of the place I was visiting (also called just an excuse to buy perfumes). The general reaction of my family was one of dread at the prospect of being dragged to a series of perfume shops, so I sometimes had to make excuses and “disappear” on a sneaky sniffing expedition. Only to come back to grumbles and questions like: “gosh I hope you didn’t buy more perfumes?”
Here are some of the interesting perfume shops, installations and museums I have discovered during my travels. This list is not comprehensive nor is it sponsored and is merely the result of chance encounters, randomness and other people’s recommendations. It will change and grow with time and any feedback or comments on any perfume-related experience in these cities or at these locations is always welcomed…
Rome
Rome is where I live at present, so obviously the list includes more recommendations in the Eternal city…
– Cherry Roma (profumeria) : a jewel of a shop close to Via Veneto. This is a real treasure trove if you have the shop to yourself, but becomes harder to navigate when it is full of people, so best avoid week-ends, when it is invaded by tourists and Romans alike. Offers a nice selection of niche brands, some of which are harder to find in Rome such as natural perfumes “Voyages Imaginaires”, Stephane Humber Lucas, Australian-born Naomi Goodsir or La Parfumerie Moderne. They also have a website that occasionally offers items at discounted prices.
– L’Olfattorio has several shops in the center of Rome. Personally it is the brands of Amouage and AKKRO mainly that attract me there but you will find your usual popular niche picks such as Byredo, BDK, etc.
– Campo Marzio : same concept more or less as l’Olfattorio, has several sales points in the center of Rome, where you can find the usual suspects. I generally go there for brands such as Trudon and Vero Kern (an exclusive of the boutique).
– HB Profumeria : in the center of Roma, via dei due Macelli, beautifully presented and offering both classic niche brands and some more confidential brands that are generally harder to find in Europe like the Aedes de Venustas.
– Profumeria Testaccio : if you happen to be in the vicinity of the Testaccio Market area and all of its night life, worth checking out. I would personally go there to check out lesser-known Middle Eastern brands, as well as Heeley and Tauer (harder to find in Rome) but they have the usual niche brands as well.
– A quick word about La Rinascente on via del Tritone. It’s a fancy department store that was renovated a few years ago. Generally I try to avoid department stores but this particular location is rather special. The ground floor of the building features an old Roman aqueduct (l’acquedotto Vergine) and is quite a cool pace for coffee. The 1s floor has a wide selection of exclusive luxury designer brands and niche brands and during a recent visit I was impressed by Hermes’ sales rep that was both incredibly kind with samples and knowledgeable about the Hermessense line (it’s not always the case with sales rep in perfumery as we all know, so it’s worth noting). Guerlain staff are also very nice and knowledgeable and so are generally the Chanel people. You can find the Chanel Exclusif line there (that are generally excluvively sold at Chanel boutiques) as well as some older more confidential Guerlain perfumes that you wouldn’t find in any old perfumery, such as the extrait of Vol de Nuit. They regularly have discount dates for Rinascente card holders so it’s worth getting it (it’s free) if you have a chance to go.
– Profumum Roma : well, when in Rome… Here’s the brand that is presenting itself as the “Roman” offering, so it makes sense checking them out if you are travelling to Rome. Usually, they have an oily feel, the brand says it’s because of the “high oil concentration” used in the perfumes. I don’t know how that works, I think the concentration is linked to a product being either an eau de toilet, eau de parfum or extrait (so the ratio between the perfume materials used, synthetic or natural, that create the scent and the alcohol in which they are dissolved). Extrait would be the most concentrated but it doesn’t really need not be oily. Anyway, I’ll investigate further but this is one of their distinctive features, along with the fact that they sell smaller travel-friendly 18 ml bottles. They also have multiple stores in Rome.
– Eau d’Italie (https://eauditalie.com/it) : Again, included here as an Italian/Roman tribute although they are inspired initially by a hotel on the Amalfi coast, so not really Rome. They used to be reasonably priced and had gems (now discontinued) like Paestum Rose but in recent years, their prices went from 95 eur for 100 ml to a whopping 165 eur. I will leave it up to each person to judge whether current prices make sense but they are following trends of skyrocketing prices in perfumery, so they are in good company. Jardin du Poete (by Bertrand Duchaufour) is a very nice crisp green light floral composition that I really like and is fantastic for warm weather, so check them out if you are in the vicinity of Piazza del Popolo.
Florence
– Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella : I don’t generally recommend single brand shops (well I have just recommended two in Rome…) but this one is so spectacular that it needs to be included. The current flagship Santa Maria Novella shop in Florence, an actual annex to the Santa Maria Novella Convent run by Dominican monks, was already a pharmacy during the Middle Ages. Monks used medicinal herbs they cultivated in the gardens to create concoctions with therapeutic benefits which later became perfumes. The brand has been in the same location for the past 800 years and has the extraordinary privilege to claim genuine centuries old roots (unlike many more “creative” brands that have fabricated a past). When I saw it last, it had just inaugurated its new iris fragrance (which wasn’t for me) and the window dressing of this unique shop was just out of a fairy tale. Worth a visit, even if, like me, their perfumes don’t really do it for you, it’s a cultural visit none-the-less.
– Museo Villoresi del profumo : Museo Villoresi, created by perfumer and brand owner, Lorenzo Villoresi, offers visitors a multisensory journey of discovery into the world of perfumes, scents and the most important aromatic substances, as well as the history, myths and legends that have characterized this world for centuries. At the heart of the exhibition lies the Osmorama scent library, which hosts a large collection of ancient and modern aromatic ingredients from all around the world. I have to be honest; I didn’t manage to make it there last time I was in Florence, due to the dynamics of family trips and my loved ones’ reluctance to indulge my perfume obsession, making it very hard for me to “insert” perfume stops! I was “allowed” one scent stop, and I choose to check out the SMN shop. This is next!
Sicily, Catania
– Boudoir 36 : run by perfumer Antonio Alessandria of the eponymous brand, it offers a small haven of perfume bliss. Expert advice and a careful selection of brands attest to the fact that it’s the brain child of a perfumer. I have not had a chance to go there myself but I have met Mr. Alessandria several times, so I feel I’ve be been there already. Let me know how it is…
Brussels
Well the scent scene in Brussels has definitely evolved quite a bit over the last few years. From memory I don’t recall the city being afloat with niche perfumeries but there are quite a few interesting offerings now and one of the largest niche perfume stores I have ever seen called Senteurs d’Ailleurs (smells from elsewhere? Doesn’t translate very well I am afraid)
– Senteurs d’Ailleurs : at the center of Brussels shopping district (place Stephanie), this huge luxurious boutique offers a very large selection of niche brands. As with most “niche” (whatever the term may mean) perfume stores, the emphasis is on premium luxury brands that have often been acquired by large groups, making them anything but niche (EdPFM, Byredo, Jo Malone, etc.). So I would call them statement brands. They also feature some more independent brands such as Parfum d’Empire, Heeley, Naomi Goodsir etc.
Worth having a look if you are not quite sure what you are looking for as they have a very broad selection of brands.
– Smell Stories : Located in the heart of historic Brussels, near the Grand-Place, this is the pick for those who are looking for artistic perfumery from smaller artisanal brands. I’m already a fan of their Art Nouveau shop window, which sets the tone of what you will find inside . The boutique offers an interesting selection of independent brands such as AKKRO, Francesca Bianchi, Eris Parfum, Hiram Green, Bogue Profumo, Andrea Maack, etc. Probably the most “perfumista curated” selection in town. Compared to Senteurs d’Ailleurs, they are more geared towards artisanal smaller brands rather than statement niche brands.
– Parfum d’Ambre (https://parfumdambre.be) : a wonderful boutique in the fancy Uccle neighbourhood, which is easy to miss on the highly trafficked Rue du Bailli and a few meters from the shops of Avenue Louise. It features mainly niche brands that have a twist: historic brands that have been revamped (Lubin, Frapin, ..), brands that base their perfumes on music (l’orchestra à parfum), brands that are “green and or natural”, like Floratropia, etc..
A stop “de rigueur” for those who are looking for something a bit different.
Zurich
– Osswald : “The” niche perfumery in Zurich, dating back to 1921 on the chic Banhofstrasse, which also doubles as a spa and beauty center, offering a selection of cosmetics and creams. In terms of perfumery, one can find a broad selection of classical “niche” brands (Diptyque, Profumum Roma, EdPFM, etc.), as well as luxury designer brands such as Guerlain, Dior etc. My only comment would that that, although there is wide choice, there are few artisanal brands, so if what you are looking for are more ”quirky” independent perfume brands, you might not find them in this store.
– Parfumerie Spitzenhaus : closed to fashionable Paradeplatz and housed in the historical building dating back to 1884, Parfumerie Spizenhaus offers a mix of Belle Epoque exterior and ultra-modern interior design. As with Osswald, it doubles also as beauty/cosmetics shop selling premium skin care products along with perfumes. The brands featured include a mix of solid niche brands (Nishane, Dusita etc.) and lesser-known artisanal brand such as: DS Durga, Quartana, Phuong Dang, etc. The inclusion of small artisanal brands is fun, as it allows scent enthusiasts to test perfumes that are not often available. A word of caution for your wallet, all offerings are definitely on the pricy side.
Paris
Paris is an odd one. On the one hand, clearly the capital of perfumery. On the other, niche brands are not actually quite as ubiquitous in France as they are in Italy, which has a much higher number of niche perfumeries. Let’s say it’s still a more “traditional” market favouring established brands. In 2021, 75 % of all perfumes sold in France were still sold at one of the three main beauty chains, Sephora, Marrionaud and Nocibé.
So my take is that apart from Sens Unique and Jovoy (see below) there are not a million niche perfumeries in the City of Lights. What you do have are premium department stores (Le Printemps, GL, etc.) that offer a lot of choice! And then you have the individual flagship stores of many perfume brands, that are worth checking out as they offer some perfumes that are not available elsewhere and also because of their historical value and beauty. So my shorter list for Paris is just the result of the facts that I cannot list every perfume brand there is, check out your favourites and their location ins Paris.
– Sens Unique : an actually very small store but with a very curated list of brands. I know them mostly via their website but when I was in Paris, I stopped by their boutique in the fashionable Marais district and was surprised by the minute size of their store. Well worth a visit and if you are not in Paris, keep checking what they are up to online, as there are sometimes online promotions that are interesting. They also offer a sampling service which is great. One of the first stores to offer “Les Indemodables” before they became “fashionable”.
– Jovoy Paris on Rue de Castiglione, near the Louvre Museum, in the first arrondissement, is undoubtably the largest niche perfume store in Paris. Now also carrying their own perfume line, much like Aedes de Venustas in NYC. Featured is a wide selection of upmarket luxury brands ranging from the obvious (Amouage, Xerjoff, etc.) and some lesser-known brands that are interesting to discover like natural brand Parfumeurs du Monde.
– Le Printemps Haussman : there are several stores in Paris, I would personally go to the one on boulevard Haussmann. The store is located in the 9th arrondissement and is one of the Belle Epoque department stores housed in a beautiful Art Deco building from 1923. The selection of brands there is what you would find in high-end department stores like Harvey Nichols or Liberty in London, or Bloomingdales or Saks in NYC.
– Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, on the left bank in the 6th arrondissement. Like Printemps, also dates back to the mid 19th century and offers a wide selection of luxury brands, similar to Printemps.
– L’Osmothèque : technically outside Paris in Versailles, this living perfumery museum or perfume conservation institute, is my white whale. I don’t often go to Paris and when I do it’s such a rush that I never make it to Versailles but going there and smelling some vintage, now long gone, perfume legends is on my absolute must-do list. Mind you, I did manage to smell quite a few of the iconic fragrances I desperately wanted to discover at the last Esxence show in April 2023. So if you can’t make it to Paris check whether they attend some of the perfume fairs that might be closer to you…I won’t list the various perfumes I tried, I just wanted to mention one: Iris Gris (by Fath) possibly the most spellbinding Iris perfume I’ve ever smelled (and yes I know, Patrice Reveillard has done a version of this perfume based on the old formula called Iris de Fath, but not having 1,400 eur to spare, it’s out of my reach. The eau de parfum that just came out, which I also smelled at Esxence, was also done by the same perfumer and is quite nice, and more reasonably priced. I assume the synthetic iris accord replaced a lot of the iris butter that featured in the perfume version. But I digress. Anyway, it’s probably better to make an appointment if you want to smell some specific scents and the Osmothèque also organizes regular conferences, some online which I have attended, some on site that might satisfy you until you have a chance to visit in person…
Individual brand stores
– Guerlain : ok the mother of all perfume stores, or rather the grand mother of all perfume stores really. Situated on the uber touristy Champs Elysée, it might have fallen victim to its location and fame. I had dreamt of going there for ages but to be honest, last time I was there, I felt I was in some sort of tourist trap and ended up feeling slightly underwhelmed. Obviously beautiful and work a visit but maybe try to avoid being stuck in the crowds of tourists (I dont know how to do that on the Champs Elysée in Paris).
– Serge Lutens flagship store near Jardin du Luxembourg. I mean it’s a universe, like an Almodovar film. You might not like it, but you can’t deny it has a soul and an identity. If you like Gothic horror stories or Tim Burton movies, then you must check it out. This is an example of an artist shaping his brand around his inner world. A Serge Lutens ‘scent is a piece of his soul. Indifference is not an option. Of how many brands can you say that?
– Diptyque : I like Dyptique. It’s easy to dismiss them as a candle maker that also does scents but I think they have managed to create a brand identity that is distinctive and cohesive, and they have a perfume collection that is interesting while still being wearable. Their first perfume is based on the scent of their original store, worth a visit if you like the brand.
– Frederique Malle : we all know the brand is now under the Estée Lauder Group and many have complained about the impact it has had on the company. There is no denying though the impact Malle has had on the perfume world and his flagship store rue des Francs-Bourgeois (what a great name by the way) is worth a visit if you care about the brand.
1 comment